Christmas in France: Lights, Markets & Winter Magic

When you imagine Christmas in France, think beyond tinsel and trees. It’s an experience woven from centuries-old customs, snowy alpine villages, bustling wooden chalets in town squares, and regional flavours.

If you’re in Australia and dreaming of a December escape to France, here’s how to feel the magic: from festive lights and cosy markets to desserts, mountains and that unmistakable winter charm.

Festive lights & markets

Across France, the festive season begins in late November. Cities light up, wooden chalets pop up, and the scent of vin chaud (mulled wine) fills the air.

A standout is the city of Lyon, with its famous Fête des Lumières (Festival of Lights) held around 8 December. A spectacular four-day celebration when the city is transformed by hundreds of glowing installations and artistic displays.

Christmas markets are another essential stop. Some of the most magical ones are found in Alsace, in eastern France, where the tradition dates back centuries.

A nativity scene, and meaning beneath the sparkle

In France, tradition still lives through the nativity scene or crèche. Families, churches and town halls display figurines and scenes of the Nativity. In the Provence region especially, you’ll find not just a simple creche but an entire tableau of village life and figurines called santons.

Gastronomy: mulled wine, market treats and the famed thirteen desserts

Wandering a Christmas market, you’ll find stalls with vin chaud (mulled wine) warmed, spiced, served in cups to keep you moving between chalets and shopping. Roasted chestnuts, pain d’épices (gingerbread), candied almonds and local sweets are part of the treat.

Then comes the festive meal: on Christmas Eve, many French families enjoy the réveillon: a long dinner featuring special dishes (oysters, foie gras, smoked salmon, turkey with chestnuts or game depending on region). In Provence, after the dinner comes les treize desserts (the thirteen desserts): 13 types of sweets/dried fruits/nuts/small cakes symbolising Jesus and the 12 apostles.

There’s also the traditional cake called the bûche de Noël a light sponge cake rolled with cream and decorated to resemble a wooden log that appears on many tables in France.

Snow, slopes and alpine magic

Now, if you’d like your Christmas with snow and panoramic peaks, consider heading to the alpine region. Towns like Courchevel turn into postcard scenes. It offers a festive, snow-covered experience. Wooden chalets, Christmas markets, torchlight ski descents, fireworks, Santa visits in snow-shrouded villages, it’s Christmas in a winter-wonderland style.

It’s the kind of winter that feels worlds away from an Aussie summer barbecue.

Practical tips for Australian travellers

• Timing: Visit in early December for markets and lights with fewer crowds, or mid-December for full festive buzz.

• Weather: Pack proper winter gear: warm layers, waterproof boots and a good coat.

• Planning: Mountain stays book out fast, so reserve accommodation early.

• Food: In Provence, try the thirteen desserts; in alpine regions, go for fondue or raclette; in city markets, enjoy vin chaud and sweet snacks.

• Route idea: Combine city and snow. Start in Lyon or Paris, then head to the Alps for a few days.

• Travel: Most flights from Australia arrive in Paris; trains and short regional flights connect easily to Lyon, Strasbourg or the Alps.

There’s something about a snow-covered valley, the warmth of vin chaud shared with strangers under the lights, and the laughter of a tiny market square where everyone seems to know each other that reminds you why winter here feels so special.

Why this matters

Christmas in France isn’t just a holiday; it’s a blend of tradition, culture, hospitality and scenery. Whether you’re sipping mulled wine beneath the lights of Lyon, sharing the thirteen desserts with a Provençal family, or skiing down snowy slopes in Courchevel under fir-tree lights, you’re tapping into something sincere and deeply human.

For Australians looking for something beyond the usual summer break, December in France is a chance to slow down, savouring traditions, and feeling the quiet magic of winter.